I have a small obsession with mills. Not the large-scale industrial kind but the small kitchen tools used for grinding spices, nuts, and herbs.
Here is a look at a few from my collection:
While each of them is special to me in different ways, the Magnum (pictured below) from Unicorn Mills has to be one of my favorites. This post isn’t meant to pit the mills against each other; rather, I want to discuss the Unicorn Magnum's usability in detail. An object's usability can be outlined by looking at the 5E’s: effectiveness, efficiency, engagement, error tolerance, and ease of use.
Effectiveness
Celebrity chef Alton Brown famously hates kitchen gadgets that are unitaskers. That is, niche tools in the kitchen that serve a single purpose. Personally, and I think Alton would agree, a pepper mill is not a ‘gadget’ but an essential item for aspiring cooks and chefs alike. (Note: let’s leave the squirrel pictured above out of the unitasking gadget discussion.)
So, if a pepper mill serves a single purpose, to grind pepper, is the Unicorn Magnum effective? Yes. The grinder does its job extraordinarily well.
Efficiency
Efficiency is the standout feature for the Unicorn Magnum. It grinds more pepper per turn (PPT) than any other mill that I own. Not only is the PPT output unusually high, but it also takes much less effort to twist the mechanism; this means you can grind this thing all day without straining your wrists. Please have a look at the image below comparing the PPT between three of my mills.
Each mill was turned one full turn and held approximately one inch above the paper. I will admit the grind sizes were not set the same, but the Unicorn Magnum's output is undeniably impressive.
I do have one complaint, however, and it is how you load pepper into the device:
To load the mill: you first have to open it by rotating the middle section, then you turn the mill on its side so that the hole is facing upwards (pictured above), and then pour the pepper into the cylinder. It sounds easy, but in practice, it is not. Compared to top-loading mills, this can be a bit cumbersome since you have to hold the mill in one hand and pour pepper with the other. Frequently, peppercorns miss the unfortunately small hole and end up all over the kitchen floor. This means I often have to take my time, carefully pouring the pepper, and then usually spend a few minutes looking for rogue peppercorns on my dark grey kitchen tile or black countertop.
Engagement
The beauty of this peppermill is subjective. Personally, I like the unique design and black aesthetic. A feature that sets the Unicorn Magnum apart from some other mills is the inclusion of a tray to store the mill when not in use. The tray collects any loose pepper whenever you lay it down, which is an addition I wish more mills had.
The device overall is just so satisfying to use. I truly feel the Unicorn Magnum was my own personal gateway into the world of grinders. Several years ago, a friend told me he got this “cool new pepper mill” that I just HAD to try. I was skeptical, but one turn, and I was hooked. Unicorn claims this mill has a “Superiore” mechanism, and I can vouch for just how smooth it feels when grinding pepper (Magnum).
Error Tolerant
If spilling peppercorns all over the place when loading a pepper mill is an error (I think it is), then I can add that design flaw here as well. I would also suggest that incorrect grind size could be considered an error. Depending on the application, you may want the grind set to fine, medium, or coarse. To adjust the grind size, you need to turn a finicky screw on the bottom. This results in a lot of trial and error to get the desired size. I usually leave mine at a medium-coarse grind as I have other mills that can be adjusted much easier.
Easy to learn/Ease of use
There is no major initial setup for the mill as it comes preloaded with pepper. You may want to adjust the grind size, but it is as easy as turning the screw on the bottom. Maintenance is easy. When the pepper is depleted, loading the mill is intuitive (though a little messy). Once loaded and the grind size set, you turn the top, and pepper comes out. That’s it.
References
Magnum. (n.d.). Retrieved January 25, 2021, from http://www.unicornmills.org/magnum.html
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